For centuries, Vis Island was regarded as one of the most important military points on the Adriatic. Due to its strategic position, it was the site of major naval battles, military headquarters, and bases that shaped the course of regional history. Today, the island hides dozens of abandoned military structures – barracks, forts, hangars, and underground tunnels – which are accessible to curious visitors.
On July 20, 1866, near the island, one of the greatest naval battles of the 19th century took place – the Battle of Vis (1866) – where the Austrian fleet under Admiral Tegetthoff defeated the Italian navy.
Until 1918, the island belonged to Austria-Hungary, followed by two years of Italian occupation. In 1920, it became part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. During World War II, after the fall of Fascist Italy in 1943, liberated Vis became the main naval base of the Partisan forces (NOV) and a stronghold of the national liberation struggle. From June to October 1944, it served as the headquarters of the Supreme Staff of the Partisan Army.
After the war, Vis became a major Yugoslav Navy (JNA) base, with over twenty military structures including barracks, underground bunkers and tunnels, a helipad, submarine shelter, and a radar station. Due to its military importance, the island was closed to foreigners until 1990.
During the Croatian War of Independence, the Yugoslav navy withdrew to the Bay of Kotor, and the island became part of independent Croatia.
Military Tunnel "Lobster" (Jastog), Parja Bay
ARK Vela Glava – Underground Command Center
Located near Podšpilje, this former JNA military command base was built underground as a nuclear shelter for approximately 200 people. While much of the facility is overgrown or closed, some areas remain accessible to visitors interested in the island’s Cold War history.
Stupišće Missile Base – Largest Military Base on Vis
Located near Komiža, this site includes underground tunnels, artillery positions and abandoned storage rooms. It was once the island’s most powerful military base. Guided tours are recommended for safety and interpretation.
Tito’s Cave – WWII Partisan Command Shelter
Located beneath the summit of Hum, this cave served as the headquarters of the Partisan leadership, including Josip Broz Tito, in 1944. Access is via a path with around 275 steps from a small parking area. After the visit, hikers are encouraged to continue to the top of Hum for views over Komiža.
Sign in Tito’s Cave
Barjaci – Artillery Base with Tunnels
This deceptive base near the village of Barjaci housed artillery positions and underground tunnels. Built to disguise its true military function, it is now open for exploration and surrounded by scenic nature.
Military Tunnel "Jastog" in Parja Bay
Built in 1982 by the Yugoslav Navy and JNA, this massive tunnel is 127 meters long and about 18 meters high, carved into the rocky cliffside. Contrary to popular belief, it was not used for submarines but as a shelter for torpedo boats. Accessible by boat or foot.
Underground Tunnels in Rogačić
These Cold War–era tunnels were part of a large defensive military complex, providing shelter for personnel and equipment. Located southwest of the new post office in Rogačić, the site is easy to reach, though visitors are advised to bring a flashlight or phone light.
Barracks in Rogačić and Samogor
Former JNA military housing facilities, now abandoned, yet open for those interested in exploring the structural remains of Vis’s military past.
You can find more military destinations and details about organized tours at local tourist agencies.
The island’s strategic wartime role
During World War II, Vis Island played a key strategic role in the Mediterranean. One of the most important Allied infrastructure projects on the island was the construction of a military airfield in Plisko Polje, which served as a vital emergency base for Allied aircraft.
History of the airfield
Built in 1944, the Allied airfield played a crucial role in operations over the southern Adriatic. It was used for emergency landings of damaged bombers, supplying Allied forces, and rescuing aircrews returning from missions over the Balkans. The Plisko Polje location, in the heart of the island, was chosen for its flat terrain and natural protection from enemy attacks.
The runway measured 799 meters in length and 30 meters in width, aligned northeast–southwest, at an altitude of approximately 109 meters. Despite its provisional construction, it could accommodate large military aircraft, including bombers and transports.
Restoration and a future that never came
After the war, the airfield gradually fell out of use. In 2017, Aeroclub Cumulus, together with local aviation enthusiasts, restored the runway for test purposes. Two planes landed at Plisko Polje, followed by seven more, during an event that also included a small air show. For many locals, it was the first time seeing Vis from the air.
Despite early optimism and plans to develop a small sport or recreational airport, the project never took off. Today, the runway lies abandoned, and the area is returning to nature and agricultural use.
Diverging views among locals
Opinions on the future of the airfield are divided. Some believe that an active runway could attract higher-spending tourists, facilitate logistics (such as yacht crew rotations), and help position Vis as an exclusive destination. Others raise concerns about environmental and legal constraints, which could affect local farming, especially organic agriculture.
Alternative ideas have emerged, such as using the site as a helicopter base or as a light recreational airstrip for future electric aircraft, aiming to strike a balance between development and sustainability.
Remains of the WWII Allied airfield on Vis Island – Plisko Polje
📷 Kristijan Trojnar